As Big As Your Head

Rick Steves says that if you like Italy when who hit Rome, keep going further south...if not, stop.  I agree whole heartedly.  Italy becomes more intensely Italy in the south.  The roads are smaller, the places more crowded and the people more stereotypically Italian.  It is a far different place than our "reserved" north.
I knew this, or at least thought I did, since I had been to Naples before but our recent excursion to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast was a far different deal.

Our trip started inauspiciously when 2 minuets before our 1st train of 4, leaving from Ferrara, was scheduled to depart; the schedule board and the train station PA announced an 140 min delay.  Those who have traveled by train in Europe and Italy particularly know that the rest of the day will be an severe uphill battle.  That being said, we managed to arrive in Sorrento only about 1 hour later than expected and only having to take 6 trains to get there.  Along the way we got to meet some of the locals/scenic views as we traveled the "Circumvesuvio" train.  This is basically an above ground subway that travels from Naples to Sorrento...it takes an hour and a half, stops 36 times, we had 6 people and 6 suitcases and it was rush hour.  On the flip side it's cheap but the cool way to do it is by ferry.

Our stay in Sorrento was awesome.  The place is breathtaking and our hotel was perfect.  I definitely recommend the Hotel Il Nido for good food, service and an unequaled view of the Bay of Naples and Mt Vesuvius.  We took a bus ride down the Amalfi Coast, not by tour bus mind you but a city bus.  The best word for that is- Thrilling although Lauren would use Carsick..  The views are indescribable as you pass villages literally built into the sides of cliffs. In some spots the road is only wide enough for 1 car and when meeting another bus coming the opposite direction I could have literally reached through the window and touched the person sitting on the aisle side of the seat in the other bus.

We also toured Pompeii and because it was a week day and a bit cold and rainy we ended up being the only people with our tour guide.  Our Pompeii tour was unmatched for revealing the daily life of people who lived 2000 years ago.  As a lover of history I think all history should be taught like that, up close and as a personal story.

The thing that Sorrento and the surrounding area are perhaps best known for, besides bus rides and volcanic activity, is lemons.  They have a few varieties only found in that region and one that grows about the size of a cantaloupe.

regular lemons, mandarin oranges and 1 HUGE LEMON

the lemon on the left is a LARGE regular lemon, about as wide as my fist

On our way back we dropped Bob and Nancy in Rome for a few days of sight seeing.  Of course nothing comes easily because I accidentally gave mine and Lauren's ticket to them.  Fortunately the train conductor took some pity on us and only charged us 1 additional ticket to ride from Rome to Ferrara...after I had repeatedly insisted to several Italians that "yes this is my seat"  Oh well, when life gives you Lemons...

FELICE CAPODANNO!

It is with mixed emotions that I ring the new year in.  Although 2010 was an great year, 2011 may be our last year here.  However, 2010 closed out in grand style and I  know that we'll continue to have great memories in our remaining time, no matter how much it is.

Christmas day was rung in on Midnight Christmas Eve by all the church bells in the city, a beautiful sound to fall asleep to.  But we welcomed the New Year in drama and revelry at the Ferrara Castle with, in my opinion, the most dramatic fireworks display anywhere.

Happy New Year everyone...and if you want to have an unforgettable New Year's Eve party, come to Ferrara sometime.  Check out the link for info, more pictures and video.  http://www.capodannoaferrara.com/

Everyone Needs This

A car in their restaurant!  Found this the other day at a place we frequent for lunch.  Yep a fully functional Fiat 500, put away for winter storage.

Like Vikings!

I recently spent a week in Norway and it was a very interesting place.  The city I went to, Stavanger, is on the southwest coast, is the third largest in Norway and is the epicenter of the Norwegian oil industry.  The history of Stavanger is of course a Viking one but it does boast a very large British style medieval cathedral.  These days it is one on the most expensive places to live, thanks to their remote locals and the high wages from the offshore oil industry.  The area is beautiful with mountains, fiords and ocean views everywhere.

Stavanger Harbor

Since I was there for work, I had the opportunity to be shown the sights by a Norwegian co-worker.  He decided to take a few of us out for a traditional Norwegian meal, Lute Fisk (it’s pronounced kind of like ludicrous).  The restaurant we went to was known for this dish and it is traditionally served with mushy peas, boiled potatoes and a Norwegian spirit called Aquavit.  It is important to know up front, which we did, if you are ever in this situation that Lute Fisk is Cod cured in lye…yes the stuff you make soap from.  Undeterred and not wanting to offend we all bravely ordered and he confirmed with the waitress in Norwegian “Yes, 10 lutefisk!”

Lute Fisk- top center, boiled potatoes to the bottom right and mushy peas to the left

I wouldn’t say it was bad, but I’m not a fan of raw fish of any kind and to be fair most people at the table finished their entire portion.  However, it is basically a firm jello consistency and mostly raw since it is basically only steam cooked after it has been lye cured for about 2 weeks.  Aquavit on the other hand is similar to vodka, but has a fiery finish like moonshine or strong whiskey, and is cured in oak barrels; optimally in a sea going ship.  Even today Norwegian flagged ships often carry casks of the stuff in their holds. 

The discussion of the evening revolved almost entirely around the dish, its accompaniment and what brought it about.  After a bit of discussion we came to the following conclusion:  The Vikings would set off to raid England with a fully stocked warship, which held a cask of freshly distilled Aquavit in its cargo hold.  They would row across the North Sea, pillage and punder for a few months and then decided “it’s time to go home!”  They would then catch a few cod, toss them in some lye to cure while they rowed back across the North Sea to Norway where, upon arrival, they would have a huge party on steam cooked lye cured fish, old peas left over from England, Irish potatoes boiled in the steam cooking fish water and a strong drink to finish it off…and that is how good stories, lies and rumors start.

Why I don't Blog More

Rome...Venice...Ferrara...Amersterdam...Norway.

I feel truly fortunate to be able to see these things.  I think I have seen some of the most famous pieces of art, architecture and culture in history.  It is worth not flying for a few years.

St Peter's at Sun Rise, Rome

St Peter' at Sun Set, Rome

St Mark's Square, Venice

Este Family Crest, Ferrara Castle

Sun Set, Amsterdam

View out my hotel, Stavanger, Norway.

Odds Are...

If it is to be done in a way that makes the least sense (to me anyway), takes the longest or is the most dangerous you can bet that's the way it's getting done.

Take these two guys.

That's right, the guy on the left is pushing his friend with his foot while riding in traffic because the two blocks they road were too far to walk and push.

Just the Good Ol’ Boys

Tricked out 4x4 Dodge covered in mud…check

Black lab perched in passenger seat…check

Is it Mississippi?  Georgia?   Tennessee?  Texas?

Nope, Ferrara Italy.  I saw this guy parked about ½ a block from the castle along the main street.  Foxworthy was right; there are rednecks everywhere.