Rick Steves says that if you like Italy when who hit Rome, keep going further south...if not, stop. I agree whole heartedly. Italy becomes more intensely Italy in the south. The roads are smaller, the places more crowded and the people more stereotypically Italian. It is a far different place than our "reserved" north.
I knew this, or at least thought I did, since I had been to Naples before but our recent excursion to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast was a far different deal.
Our trip started inauspiciously when 2 minuets before our 1st train of 4, leaving from Ferrara, was scheduled to depart; the schedule board and the train station PA announced an 140 min delay. Those who have traveled by train in Europe and Italy particularly know that the rest of the day will be an severe uphill battle. That being said, we managed to arrive in Sorrento only about 1 hour later than expected and only having to take 6 trains to get there. Along the way we got to meet some of the locals/scenic views as we traveled the "Circumvesuvio" train. This is basically an above ground subway that travels from Naples to Sorrento...it takes an hour and a half, stops 36 times, we had 6 people and 6 suitcases and it was rush hour. On the flip side it's cheap but the cool way to do it is by ferry.
Our stay in Sorrento was awesome. The place is breathtaking and our hotel was perfect. I definitely recommend the Hotel Il Nido for good food, service and an unequaled view of the Bay of Naples and Mt Vesuvius. We took a bus ride down the Amalfi Coast, not by tour bus mind you but a city bus. The best word for that is- Thrilling although Lauren would use Carsick.. The views are indescribable as you pass villages literally built into the sides of cliffs. In some spots the road is only wide enough for 1 car and when meeting another bus coming the opposite direction I could have literally reached through the window and touched the person sitting on the aisle side of the seat in the other bus.
We also toured Pompeii and because it was a week day and a bit cold and rainy we ended up being the only people with our tour guide. Our Pompeii tour was unmatched for revealing the daily life of people who lived 2000 years ago. As a lover of history I think all history should be taught like that, up close and as a personal story.
The thing that Sorrento and the surrounding area are perhaps best known for, besides bus rides and volcanic activity, is lemons. They have a few varieties only found in that region and one that grows about the size of a cantaloupe.
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| regular lemons, mandarin oranges and 1 HUGE LEMON |
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| the lemon on the left is a LARGE regular lemon, about as wide as my fist |
On our way back we dropped Bob and Nancy in Rome for a few days of sight seeing. Of course nothing comes easily because I accidentally gave mine and Lauren's ticket to them. Fortunately the train conductor took some pity on us and only charged us 1 additional ticket to ride from Rome to Ferrara...after I had repeatedly insisted to several Italians that "yes this is my seat" Oh well, when life gives you Lemons...